Day 8-10: São Paulo,
Brazil. There's no getting away from the fact: São Paulo is
a monster. The largest city in the southern hemisphere and
the third largest metropolis on planet earth. With a population two
and a half times that of Greater London, twenty million people have
decided to make this place their home, and to plagiarise Paul Hogan's
words from the film Crocodile Dundee, this should
make Sampa (as locals affectionately know it) the friendliest city on
earth!
And
you know, despite Brazil's rampant crime rate, São Paulo does
actually feel like a
safe and friendly place to live due, in the main, to it's
unparalleled racial and ethnic diversity. Ask me to point out a
typical 'Paulistano' to you and I wouldn't be able to. The city has
been multiracial since its foundation in the 16th
Century, bringing together Portuguese, African and indigenous people.
Since then, wave after wave of immigration has given the city a
truly global face. Italian and Spanish migrants poured in during the
18th
Century to pick coffee after Brazil emancipated slaves in 1888 and
they now number about 5 million and 3 million respectively. Add to
this the highest number of Japanese descendants outside of Japan
(1.5 million), the highest number of Lebanese descendants outside of
the Lebanon (850,000), the 1 million or so Germans, the 130,000
strong Jewish community, the Chinese, the Armenians, the Lithuanians,
the Greeks, the Syrians, the Koreans, the Polish and the Hungarians
and you'll see what I mean.
And
for 'foodies' like Karen and me, this made for one of the most
interesting and diverse culinary melting pots in the world. A trip
to the Mercado Municipal
provided a great insight: This daily food market of gargantuan
proportion is housed inside a neoclassical building dating back to
1928 bringing together the best of produce from around the globe:
Dried fish from Norway, Serrano hams from Italy, olives from Spain,
beers from Denmark, whisky from Scotland and Vegemite from Australia
(well done Australia)!
But
despite all of this diversity and choice, the city's signature dish
is actually pizza. With such a huge Italian influence the locals
maintain that Paulistano Pizza
is better than anything you'll try in New York, Chicago or even
Naples! And from our experience of the little Pizzeria in the chic
Vila Madelena region of the city I wouldn't disagree with them
(although had my Portuguese been a little better, I may not have
ordered the corned beef, cream cheese and olive concoction that I
ended up with)!
Walking around this intriguing,
albeit slightly tired city, the enormity of the place really hit us.
The presence and magnificence of the art-deco architecture, the views
from the top of the Banespa building, the 110 museums, the 402
cinemas, the 12,500 restaurants and the 15,000 bars (that made for
one hell of a pub crawl)!
But
of all that Sampa had to offer, one of my personal favourites was the
Museu de Futebol,
located under the terraces of Corinthians' pseudo home stadium,
Estádio do Pacaembu. This modern, R$33 million investment,
celebrates the history and successes of the the 'Beautiful Game'
throughout Brazil in an interactive, informative and engaging
experience (and let's face it, as the only team to have qualified for
all Copa Mundial and
to have brought the prized trophy home no less than five
times, Brazil has an awful lot to celebrate)! And yes, we had to
endure countless replays of Ronaldinho’s free kick, much to the
delight of the gathered Brazilian crowd, but this was about Brazil's
triumphs rather than England's failures.
One of the exhibits also provided
a great example of why Karen and I love travelling so much: To
appreciate different cultures views on our own ingrained British
perspectives. The particular display charted the history of all of
the World Cups going back to the 1930's and through pictures, video
and audio described not only what happened on the pitch, but the
social, economic and cultural background that set the tone for each
of the four yearly competitions. So in 1966, as Bobby Moore lifted
the the Jules Rimet trophy on the steps of Wembley Stadium we saw how
the Beetles were setting the global music trend (you can't argue with
that). In 1978, as Daniel Passarella lifted the trophy in his
beloved home land of Argentina it was against the back-drop of the
Sex Pistols and punk-rock (again, a good call: Sid Viscous and Jonny
Rotten were the certainly setting the music agenda for a whole
generation of teenagers brought up in the late 70's). And by 1998,
as Brazil lifted the trophy in the United States for the umpteenth
time it was apparently the Spice Girls that were at the
forefront of style and music vogue. Now, I know that I spent most of
my 1990's in a drunken stupor, but did I miss something here?!

Can I join the next pub crawl if it's likely to be the same as that?
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