Day 41-42:
The Andean North West, Argentina. “Things are definitely
different here”, Karen said, as she gazed around at the chaotic
street scene in front of us. “You can see it in the people, smell
it it the air, feel it in the wind...”. She was absolutely right.
Bolivia was going to be so different from anything we had
encountered so far in South America. But for now, I just nodded in
agreement and tucked into my spicy mutton soup. It was delicious!
Buenos Aires had
woken up to her carnival as Karen and I had woken up with another
sore head and a dawning realisation that our South American budget
was no longer sustainable . For the past 4 weeks as we had hopped in
and out of Argentina we had been spending between 20% and 100% more
than we had planned, thanks in the main to Argentina's rampant
inflation since the publication of our copy of the Lonely Planet back
in 2009. That, coupled with our excesses in the country's capital
and the additional cost of replacing the items that we had had stolen
during our first night in BA, had all taken their toll.
If we were to keep
our travels going there was only one thing for it: We had to head
north to the relative sanctuary and cheaper cost of living offered by
South America's less developed countries. We had to make it to
Bolivia.
The problem was
right now we were well over 1,000 miles south of the border and so if
we were going to make it any time soon we had to get our skates on.
Boarding a flight to Salta ate most of the miles and after an
overnight stay in this the biggest town in Argentina's Andean North
West we managed to find a bus to take us the remaining two hundred
miles or so to La Quiaca. The eight hour journey took us through
some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable: Snow capped
volcanoes, mountain passes, deserts sprouting with huge cactus plants
and the most amazing rock colours and formations which reminded me
slightly of Arizona's famous Painted Desert
Argentina's
northernmost point is a cold windy place; nestled in the heart of the
Andes and some 3,500 miles from Ushuaia where we had been just a
couple of weeks previously. La Quiaca used to be a bustling
rail-road terminus but these days the main sign of life seems to be
the hoards of weary Bolivians trudging between the border and the bus
terminal toting heavy bags of wool for sale to their 'rich' southern
neighbour. At well over 10,000 feet above sea level this was the
highest altitude that Karen and I had ever been exposed to and it was
beginning to show. We were encountering nausea, dizziness and the
breathlessness with the slightest of exertions. And they call this
area the lowlands!
The next chapter of
our adventure was about the begin. Bring it on!!

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