Precision Engineering

Day 67-69: Cusco & The Sacred Valley, Peru. “I can't even place a credit card between them”, I said to Karen in amazement, as we wandered around the peaceful ruins at Sacsaywamán just a couple of miles north of Cusco's main plaza. Two year previously, Karen and I had been fortunate enough to visit the Giza plateau where we had marvelled at the astonishing engineering skills of the ancient Egyptians in the construction of the Great Pyramids. Now, in the heart of South America, we were witnessing similar unbelievable craftsmanship; the legacy of the continents greatest pre-Columbian civilization. Huge 70 ton boulders, cut with laser precision and skilfully assembled without the need for mortar, to form great walls, temples and cities; dominating the land as far as the eye can see. For 700 years ago, the place where we were now standing was at the heart of the Inca Empire.

The 12 hour overnight bus from Arequipa had brought us northwards to the ancient city of Cuzco, our base for the next few days as we explored this fascinating city and the myriad of ancient archaeological sites that litter the 100 miles of the Sacred Inca Valley.

Cuzco itself effortlessly enchants, bombarding the senses with a swirl of art, religion, music, architecture, food, and fiestas – every possible manifestation of the syncretic Inca-Spanish culture that makes the Andes so fascinating: Ladies with llamas walk cobbled streets. Coca-chewing local honchos parade to church in ceremonial regalia for Mass in Quechua. Cuzco’s proud pagan past collides with solemn Catholic rituals in parades that stop traffic at the drop of a hat.

Despite it's obvious charm though, Cusco is one of the most relentless tourism-dominated towns on the face of the earth, sitting as it does just a stones throw from the Sacred Valley and a (relatively) short train journey to one of South America's main events: Machu Picchu. Walking through the Plaza de Armas we felt a little bit like walking ATM's! There's people here hawking massages, finger puppets, paintings, CDs and tattoos – if you want it (or even if you don't!) you can get it here!

Fortunately though, it was easy enough for us to escape the commercial madness, and become totally absorbed by the history and ambience of the lost Incan cities that lay just a short hike or bus ride from the centre of town. Magical, spiritual and mystical; even their very names like Pukapukara and Ollantaytambo, seem to have sprung from the gods imagination.

All that remains now is for me find enough room in my rucksack for the couple of mystical and magical acquisitions that I made whilst in Cusco like my alpaca wool tea-cosy and my Incan warrior snow storm. Classy eh?