R&R

Day 77-80: Southern Coast, Peru. As the sun started to set below the far western horizon, the desert sands turned a fiery red. Jumping on to our boards, Karen and I hurled ourselves from the summit of the steep dune for one last run before dark. As fast as a polaris missile but with very little in the way of control, both of us miraculously made it to the bottom with no broken limbs. After the exertion of the last 3 months, this was just we needed: Sand boarding and a little bit of relaxation and recuperation.

And when it comes to chilling out, there is probably no better place to do it that Peru's laid back southern coast: From the tiny desert oasis of Huacachina surrounded by towering sand dunes, nestling next to a picturesque (if slightly smelly!) lagoon with graceful palm trees, exotic flowers and attractive antique buildings to the charming hamlet of Lunahuaná; gateway to one of Peru's best wine producing regions, this coast really does have it all. Hoping on and off buses, collectivos and moto-taxis as if we lived here, Karen and I made our way slowly northwards along the Carr Panamericana (Pan-American Highway) where the spectacular barren deserts and sand dunes gave way to fertile valleys, lush with tropical fruit and vineyards industrious with the autumn harvest.

The low cost of living meant that we could ditch the usual backpacker's haunts and stay in some real hotels: You know the sort of thing – hotels that offer complimentary soap, monogrammed towels and maybe even a swimming pool. Luxury! Our best find by far was the remote Refugio de Santiago; a renovated colonial home a few kilometres west of Lunahuaná which represented the ultimate in relaxing hideaways. The rooms, rustic but elegant; the grounds a fragrant botanical garden providing an infinite source of inspiration for the excellent (if slightly eccentric!) Peruvian chef. Utterly passionate about his creations, he refused to let us leave his tranquil abode until we had sampled the very best of his countries gastronomy. Like fresh tuna juice (from the cactus, not the fish!), milkshake of lucumba, crayfish from the River Cañete and yes, you've guessed it, locally reared guinea pig. Prepared the traditional Peruvian way, this cuy didn't resemble the loser in a battle with a 7 ton Pickford's truck in the way that so many guinea pigs are presented in the tourist haunts. Cooked to perfection with smoked garlic and perfumed tiger milk, it had a delicious, delicate texture with a mild, gamy flavour reminiscent of the finest grouse or partridge.

So if your kids ever get bored of the family pet and you're wondering what to do, just tip me the wink and I'll rustle us up a great little dish. More red wine anyone?